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Jökulsárlón

Jökulsárlón

Ice WorldsIcelandVatnajökull,Iceland

An Icelandic lagoon of thousand-year-old icebergs calving off Vatnajökull, crossed by boat, their broken pieces washing back onto the black sand alongside.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

Autumn turns the lagoon over: the boats run to the end of October, and the equinox brings the aurora's strongest showing back over the ice. By November the first blue caves open behind, with the crowds and the nesting terns gone.



Year-round The lagoon, its drifting thousand-year-old icebergs, the seals on the floes and the ice washed onto Diamond Beach are here every day; the boats, the glacier ice caves and the aurora each keep their season.

Jökulsárlón is a lagoon on the south coast of Iceland where the Vatnajökull ice cap calves icebergs a thousand years old into the water. The lake they float in is about a century old. The glacier reached almost to the sea until the 1930s, and the lagoon opened behind it as the ice pulled back. It has since grown to four times the size it was in the 1970s, and it is already the deepest lake in the country. The channel draining it to the ocean is the shortest river in Iceland, about 500 metres. In 1989 it ran three times that, and it keeps shortening as the lagoon eats its way inland. The bergs themselves drift for months, white and milky blue, turning over as they melt. Across the road the outlet runs into the surf, and the waves push broken pieces of ice back onto the black volcanic sand beside it. They sit there polished and clear, and a low sun goes through them and lights each one from the inside. Harbour seals stay on the lagoon all year, hauling out to bask on a passing floe or rolling through the cold to hunt. Some of the bergs carry thin black lines through the ice. Each is a layer of ash from an eruption under the ice cap, and you can read a berg's age off them much as you would count rings in a tree. As the light goes the ice turns from white to deep blue with the sky, and once the buses have left the drift is the only thing still moving. On clear autumn nights the aurora comes up over the lagoon and doubles in the calm water between the floes. In summer the amphibian boats and Zodiacs run out among the bergs to the calving wall, close enough that the ice slides past you a few metres away. At some point the guide reaches over the side, lifts a lump of thousand-year-old ice out of the water and puts it in your hands.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Cross the road to Diamond Beach at first light — the clearest, biggest pieces of ice sit on the black sand early, before tour buses arrive and beachcombers pick the strip over.
  • Boat tours run only from about May to October and are weather-dependent — but the shore is open year-round, and winter pairs the lagoon with the blue ice caves in the glacier behind it.
  • In summer, give the nesting Arctic terns a wide berth — they colonise the sand near the lagoon and will dive-bomb and strike anyone who wanders too close to their eggs.
  • Never climb on the beached icebergs and keep well back from the water — the ice rolls without warning, and sudden surges on Diamond Beach have swept people off their feet.
  • The lagoon and Diamond Beach sit on opposite sides of the ring road, each with its own car park — you can walk between them, but driving round saves a busy roadside crossing.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride an amphibian boat among the icebergs

    Ride an amphibian boat among the icebergs

    Take one of the summer amphibian or Zodiac boats out onto the lagoon, right up to the wall where the glacier calves. The turquoise and milky-blue ice slides past within a few metres, and your guide lifts a lump of thousand-year-old ice from the water for you to hold.

  2. 2

    Find stranded ice on Diamond Beach

    Find stranded ice on Diamond Beach

    Cross to the black-sand beach beside the lagoon's outlet, where the surf leaves clear chunks of ice stranded on the dark volcanic grit. Kneel beside these 'diamonds' as the low sun passes through them and lights each one from within.

  3. 3

    Read the volcanic ash in the ice

    Read the volcanic ash in the ice

    Look across the water for bergs streaked with thin black lines. Each is a layer of ash from an eruption beneath the ice cap, buried in the glacier long ago — so you can read a berg's age much as you would count the rings of a tree.

  4. 4

    Spot harbour seals between the floes

    Spot harbour seals between the floes

    Scan the water and the drifting ice for harbour seals, which stay in the lagoon through every season. Watch them haul out to bask on a passing floe, or roll through the cold current as they hunt the fish carried in on the tide.

  5. 5

    Stay on the shore from dusk into the aurora

    Stay on the shore from dusk into the aurora

    Stay on the shore as the light fades and the icebergs turn from white to deep blue, matching the colour draining from the sky. Once the buses have gone the slow drift of the ice is the only thing still moving. On clear nights the aurora appears above it and, when the water goes calm, doubles below — bring a little moonlight, or the bergs stay black cut-outs.

Watch

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