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Kamianets-Podilskyi

Kamianets-Podilskyi

CanyonsUkraineKhmelnytskyi,Ukraine

A Ukrainian old town marooned inside a canyon the Smotrych loops around it, with a fortress plugging the single neck of land in.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

The fullest season: highs in the mid-20s°C, the Old Castle open to its longest evening hours, the dry canyon paths safe underfoot and the old town at its liveliest. September stays warm and clear as the crowds thin.



Year-round The canyon ring, the castle and its Turkish bridge stand every day of the year; winter brings shorter fortress hours and icy paths, and air-raid alerts can close the sites at any hour.

Kamianets-Podilskyi is an old town in western Ukraine that stands on a rock island inside a canyon. The Smotrych river loops almost the whole way around it and leaves a single neck of land, and everything built here answers that one fact. The pale stone underneath is the floor of a tropical sea more than 400 million years old, and in the canyon walls you can pick out fossil corals and shells. The river cut its ring through that limestone and gave the town a moat it never had to dig, which made it one of the strongest places in eastern Europe. A castle sits on the neck. The only road into it runs along an 88-metre span of stone, with the riverbed some 27 metres below. The Ottomans rebuilt it so thoroughly during the sieges that it is still called the Turkish Bridge. It is better walked than driven: the canyon falls away on both sides, and the gate towers grow with every step you take across. Twelve towers once ringed the Old Castle and seven still stand, each raised or reinforced by a different century. You can climb them and walk the curtain walls between. One corner tower was rebuilt with money sent by Pope Julius II, though locals name it for Ustym Karmaliuk, the rebel who robbed Podillia's landlords and broke out of it in 1823. A footpath traces the gorge rim around the town, where the limestone falls as much as fifty metres to the water. That is where the shape makes sense: the complete ring of river, and the fortress on the one piece of ground that closes it. Other paths take you down to the bottom, beside the Smotrych and past ruined water mills. Down there the traffic disappears and the fortress is a silhouette. The Ottomans held this town from 1672 to 1699 and left a 36.5-metre minaret beside the Catholic cathedral. Nobody pulled it down. Since 1756 a gilded Virgin four and a half metres tall has stood on it, because the town turned the tower it inherited into the tallest pedestal it had.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The best view of the castle is from outside it — the Novoplanivskyi Bridge frames the towers, the canyon and the river in one shot, which is the picture everyone comes home with.
  • Air-raid alerts are part of the day here — install an alert app before you arrive, and expect the fortress and museums to close and empty into shelters until the all-clear.
  • The canyon rim path is unpaved and has no railings in places, with a steep drop to the river — wear shoes with grip, and think twice after rain or in winter ice.
  • Give the site a full day — the fortress itself takes a couple of hours, and the old town and the paths down in the canyon are the other half of the visit.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross the Turkish Bridge into the castle gate

    Cross the Turkish Bridge into the castle gate

    The only road into the fortress runs along an 88-metre span of stone that the Ottomans rebuilt during the sieges, which is why locals still call it the Turkish Bridge. Walk it rather than drive it: the canyon falls away on both sides, the riverbed some 27 metres below, and the gate towers grow in front of you the whole way across.

  2. 2

    See the golden Virgin Mary atop the Ottoman minaret

    See the golden Virgin Mary atop the Ottoman minaret

    A 36.5-metre minaret still stands beside the Catholic cathedral, left behind when the Ottomans withdrew in 1699. Since 1756 a gilded Virgin Mary, four and a half metres tall, has stood on top of it — the strangest silhouette in the old town, and the one that tells its whole history in a single glance.

  3. 3

    Stand on the canyon rim above the Smotrych

    Stand on the canyon rim above the Smotrych

    A footpath traces the top of the gorge, where the limestone walls fall as much as 50 metres to the river below. From up here you see what no map explains properly: the river running a complete ring around the town, and the fortress sitting on the one piece of ground that closes it.

  4. 4

    Climb the towers of the Old Castle

    Climb the towers of the Old Castle

    Twelve towers once ringed the Old Castle and seven still stand intact, each raised or reinforced by a different century's defenders. You can climb them and walk the curtain walls between, looking down on the canyon the way the garrison did when they watched for armies coming out of the east.

  5. 5

    Walk the Smotrych past the ruined water mills

    Walk the Smotrych past the ruined water mills

    Paths drop off the rim and run along the Smotrych at the bottom of the gorge, past ruined water mills standing among the trees. Down here the traffic disappears, the limestone walls close overhead, and the fortress you were photographing an hour ago is a silhouette on the skyline.

Watch

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