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Lake Natron

Lake Natron

LakesTanzaniaArusha,Tanzania
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A Tanzanian soda lake caustic enough to calcify birds that drown in it, stained crimson by microbes, where three-quarters of the world's lesser flamingos hatch.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Oct

The dry months: clear predictable skies, riverbeds firm enough for the 4x4 tracks, and Ol Doinyo Lengai climbable before dawn. As the season ends, up to 2.5 million lesser flamingos mass on the soda flats.



Year-round The blood-red soda lake and the smouldering Ol Doinyo Lengai are here year-round; the great lesser-flamingo breeding gathering builds as the dry season ends.

Lake Natron, in the Rift Valley of northern Tanzania, is where most of the lesser flamingos alive were hatched, in water caustic enough to burn skin and to turn drowned birds to stone. It has no outlet: hot springs feed it, the heat boils it down, and what is left is a brine of sodium carbonate stained red by the microbes that can live in it. Almost nothing else can. The exception is the lesser flamingo, built for the poison: scaly skin protects its legs, and a combed bill strains out the alkaline algae that dye both the bird and the water pink. At the end of the dry season the flamingos arrive in their millions and nest on soda islets out in the middle, where nothing that hunts them can cross. You watch the nests from firm ground through binoculars; walking closer puts the whole colony in the air and the eggs are abandoned. Along the shore the soda has dried into pale tiles that crunch under your boots, the heat stands in a shimmer and the air carries a faint smell of ammonia. The calcified birds along it are real; the famous photographs of them standing frozen in death were posed. From down here the lake reads as a dull sheet. The crimson only shows from above, from the escarpment or a light aircraft, in deep red whorls veined with white. The horizon belongs to Ol Doinyo Lengai, the Maasai's Mountain of God and the only volcano on Earth still erupting carbonatite. That lava is soda rather than rock, so runny it pours like engine oil, black when it lands and crumbling to ghost white within hours. You leave in the dark and grind up hours of loose ash to reach the rim at dawn. Below it a guide takes you up the hidden Ngare Sero gorge, wading a clear stream between palms and volcanic walls to a chain of cool waterfalls, fresh water a few kilometres from water that would burn. The chicks out on those islets will be three in every four lesser flamingos alive.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The tracks in demand a 4x4 and a local guide — the final stretch crosses riverbeds that flash-flood after rain, so the dry months are the only reliably passable window.
  • Never touch the water or the wet mud — the soda is caustic enough to burn skin and eyes and it clings, so keep boots on and rinse off any splash at once.
  • Climb Ol Doinyo Lengai overnight, not by day — the ascent starts before midnight to reach the crater rim at sunrise, before the loose ash slope turns into a furnace.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Scan the flamingo flats by binocular

    Scan the flamingo flats by binocular

    At the tail of the dry season, set up on firm ground well back from the soda islets and sweep the breeding flats through binoculars — walk any closer and the nesting birds bolt and abandon their eggs. Through the lenses the far pink haze breaks into thousands of individual Lesser Flamingos, chicks and all, on the crust that no predator can cross.

  2. 2

    Climb Ol Doinyo Lengai

    Climb Ol Doinyo Lengai

    Start the climb in darkness and haul up hours of steep, crumbling ash to reach the summit of the Maasai's 'Mountain of God' at dawn. From the rim you look down into the crater of the only volcano on Earth that erupts cold black soda-lava, the Rift Valley spread far below.

  3. 3

    Trek to the Ngare Sero waterfalls

    Trek to the Ngare Sero waterfalls

    Follow a guide up a hidden gorge below the volcano, wading a clear stream between walls of volcanic rock and palms until you reach a chain of waterfalls. Cool off in the pools — a green refuge in the middle of the scorching salt country.

  4. 4

    Walk the soda lake shore

    Walk the soda lake shore

    Trace the crusted shoreline on foot, boots crunching over white soda dried into strange tiles. The heat shimmers, the air smells faintly of ammonia, and the flat red water stretches away flamingo-flecked toward the distant volcano.

  5. 5

    See the crimson lake from above

    See the crimson lake from above

    From the flat shoreline the lake reads as a dull sheet; the crimson only shows from overhead. Take a light aircraft or climb to high ground above the basin, and the microbe-stained brine unfurls in deep-red whorls veined with white soda patterns, Ol Doinyo Lengai's cone anchoring the far rim.

Watch

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